Rato Machhendranath Festival

Rato Machhendranath Fest
This is one of the longest and most interesting festivals held in Patan. (Rato=red). The Rato Machhendranath is the God who has power over rain and is also known as Karunamaya, the God of mercy. The Buddhists identify him with Lokeshwar. The festival is celebrated by constructing a chariot (rath in Nepali) with a long steeple made of wood. This chariot is then moved about from place to place often taking more than a month to reach its final destination before it is returned to its resting place.
Machhendranath is held responsible for bringing rain. Hence the festival is held just before the monsoon is to arrive in Nepal. According to legend, there was a severe drought in the valley a long time ago during the reign of King Narayan Dev of Bhadgaon (today known as Bhaktapur). It lasted for twelve long years. It was discovered that Gorakhnath who is a disciple of Machhendranath had imprisoned all the Nags (Snake Gods) who are responsible for bringing rain into the valley. Seated on the top of Mrigasthali, a hillock from where he could control the movement of the Nags, he totally shut off the possibility of them bringing any rain. It appeared he was unhappy because the people had neglected him. Thus he wished to punish them, at the same time hoping that his beloved Guru would come to the people's rescue when he would also get an audience.

It so happened that Lord Machhendranath then resided in Assam and the only way of getting to move Gorakhnath from his present location was to bring his Guru over to the valley. After lengthy discussions, it was decided that the King and two other officials would travel all the way to Assam to fetch him. The plan was to use tantric mantras to change Machhendranath into a bee and bring him back in a ceremonial vase. The plan worked perfectly and Bandhudutt, the tantric through rituals and mantras captured the God in his vase.

It so happened that when the committee was on their way back they stopped a few miles south of Patan. Gorakhnath hearing of his Guru's arrival rushed out from his hilltop. No sooner had he left Mrigasthali to meet with Machhendranath, then the Nags escaped and brought rain to drought-ridden Kathmandu valley. As Machhendranath is also known as Bungadeo, a town was built in his honour and named Bungamati. Many years after his arrival in the valley, a special temple was built for Machhendranath at Bungamati in Patan district.

Two weeks before the chariot procession is to begin, the idol of Machhendranath is brought out in a palanquin. It is taken to Lagankhel where a large crowd is waiting to witness the ceremony of bathing the red-faced idol. This over, the return journey takes place in the night and the idol is covered in cloth. There is in Patan a family that has the rights to decorating and preparing the God for his long journey by chariot. It is they who repaint the idol in secrecy. The idol is then treated as a Newar Buddhist and put through all the life cycle rituals.

Two chariots are constructed; one for Machhendranath and the other for Minnath, his godson. The Patan Kumari (Living Goddess) is brought to the Minnath temple where his idol is usually kept. The procession of the two chariots gets under way on the fourth day of the bright fortnight of Baishakh (April-May). It is accompanied by a large enthusiastic crowd, which includes Newari musicians playing traditional instruments. Pulling the chariot by means of ropes, it makes a short journey to Gabahal on the first day. There, the Living Goddess arrives to sit on her throne giving blessings to devotees until the evening. Everywhere the chariot comes to a halt, the local people come out with offerings, mostly of rice as the God ensures rain for its cultivation. Rice is not planted until the rains arrive. Feasting and drinking along with animal sacrifices marks the festivities. The chariot moves from one locality to the next giving everyone a chance to pay homage without having to travel too far.

At Lagankhel an unusual ritual is followed. A coconut is dropped from the top of the towering steeple and the waiting crowd rushes to pick it up. It is believed that the lucky one to grab it will be blessed with a son.

The last stop for the chariot is Jawalakhel, which it may reach after more than a month on the road. This happens only when the sun is in the northern hemisphere. The finale comes when the Bhoto (a bejeweled waistcoat) is displayed to the crowd. This sacred waistcoat is held up for all to see and even their majesties the King and Queen make it a point to attend and pay homage to Lord Machhendranath. This is popularly known as the "Bhoto Jatra" (jatra=festival). The Kumari makes a second appearance but basically to witness the Bhoto Jatra. The festival is then over and the idols taken back to their respective resting places; Machhendranath to Bungamati and Minnath to Patan. The chariots are dismantled and stored until the next year. Every twelve years the festival is celebrated with greater fanfare and the procession starts from Bungamati itself. The next one takes place in 2003.